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Lamu is the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlements in East Africa, retaining its traditional functions. Built in coral stone and mangrove timber, the town is characterized by the simplicity of structural forms enriched by such features as inner courtyards, verandas, and elaborately carved wooden doors. Lamu has hosted major Muslim religious festivals since the 19th century, and has become a significant centre for the study of Islamic and Swahili cultures.
While I was in Kenya on a business trip, I got an invite from a friend of mine who recently relocated from Los Angeles to Lamu, to set up a business. I quickly looked into the flights and accommodation, and decided to take her up on her offer. I invited a girlfriend whose birthday was coming up and she was happy to tag along!
From Nairobi, Kenya’s capital, we flew www.fly540.com which has a route to Lamu’s Manda Airport (USD $130 Return, Nairobi-Lamu). On the inbound trip, there was a stop over in Malindi (without the need to switch aircrafts) but the return trip was a direct flight to Nairobi.
Unlike other Swahili settlements which have been abandoned along the East African coast, Lamu has continuously been inhabited for over 700 years. The architecture and urban structure of Lamu graphically demonstrate the cultural influences that have come together over those years from Europe, Arabia, and India, utilizing traditional Swahili techniques that produced a distinct culture.
We wanted to stay within walking distance to the beach so we chose to stay on Shela Island which is adjacent to Old town Lamu; during low tide, it’s a 30 min walk to Lamu Old town or a 15 minute boat ride otherwise. We booked an Airbnb – at USD$ 125/night – which turned out to be a beautiful and picturesque location just a few steps down to Peponi beach. A boat ride from the airport to Shela costs USD $10, for 1 passenger or $15 for 2.
There are only 3 cars in entire island, all owned by the government. The only modes of transportation at your disposal in the island is a donkey or a boat, both of which are readily available. Our Airbnb happened to be next to Peponi Bar, a beachfront bar & restaurant, a perfect spot for watching the famous Lamu sunset.
To get the full coastal culture experience, we ordered “Biryani” (spicy rice) from a local chef, which was mouth-watering, as expected. After a restful siesta at the terrace in the afternoon, we went for a beach walk, admiring the beautifully decorated boats/dhows that had docked. We ran into Zainab, a talented henna artist and negotiated for a session. We then headed back to Peponi Bar for sundowner drinks.
It was finally time to catch up with my friend who had invited me to Lamu in the first place! She runs swanky little place called the Mara Raha Lounge, located in the dunes of Mararani, behind Shela. This place truly captures the essence of Lamu with the mixture of African, maritime and eclectic décor; the ambience, music and drinks were also note-worthy; I highly recommend adding this amazing spot to your Lamu itinerary. You can find the on Instagram using the handle, @mararahavillage
On day 2, we slept in. The weather was so pleasant that no A/C was needed; just open windows to let in the fresh Indian Ocean breeze! I also noticed that the air was not as humid as is the case with most Kenyan coastal destinations. For breakfast we walked to a local kibanda (food kiosk) for chai masala and mahamri (spicy tea and sweet bread); the plan was to take a boat across the way to have lunch at the famous Majlis Hotel – known for luxury and opulence – not quite in our budget range, but we figured lunch could still give us a good feel of the experience.
A boat ride to Majlis from Shela costs USD $5 per person. Once there, we had a late lunch which was nothing to write home about but we still enjoyed walking round the beautiful grounds. We had a scheduled sunset cruise thanks to our hospitable friend, Wamuhu of Mara Raha Village, then headed back to Peponi beach. In addition to running the lounge, Wamuhu is also available to curate your Lamu sightseeing itinerary.
We then took a sunset cruise was on a dhow – a traditional sail boat – to enjoy the ride and catch another beautiful Lamu sunset; it does get nippy out in the water so it is recommended that you bring a light blanket or wrap. We then headed back to Peponi bar where they were hosting a renowned travel photographer, whom we caught on the tail end of the presentation.
For our second and last night, we ordered grilled lobster; a fresh catch and the most delicious lobster I have ever had. This one was an early night, possibly from over eating, but also because we had an 11am flight the next day. I felt that I needed more time to truly explore and enjoy the place; it is definitely on the redo list, this time with at least 4-5 days.
As you plan your next beach destination, don’t sleep on Lamu. There’s a good reason its known as Lamu Tamu (Sweet Lamu)!
Here is the link for the Airbnb we stayed in www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/44388094?s=67&unique_share_id=5df584bb-5539-46a7-b85d-bd6eec268546 and here’s a link to get $65 off if you are a first time Airbnb user; www.airbnb.co.uk/c/ngakere.
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